Visit to India - Part 3

DAY FOUR

We woke up bright and early at 5.30am for the Pushkar Camel Fair, although bleary-eyed may be more accurate after a night of camel grunting and the sound of thumping music from the surrounding village in the midst of camel fair festivities. Off we set on our camel-pulled cart on a bumpy journey to the dunes to watch the sunrise. After sunrise, we travelled to a rural village where we were welcomed with music, dancing music, and traditional chai tea. Women living in vey basic desert conditions, yet still adorned head to toe in beautiful saris and jewellery.

 Whilst camels are the focus of the Pushkar Camel Fair, we found the traders themselves endlessly fascinating. Some travel hundreds of miles to buy or sell a single camel, whilst others arrive with herds of animals. Due to the sheer number of animals, thousands of camels on site, each camel is decorated with unique jewellery, flowers and some shorn with intricate patterns to help tell them apart. This gentleman was constantly twirling his moustache as he paraded his camel around the grounds. By @mikevangorkom

 Continuing our journey, we arrived at the camel market, where both the camels and their owners were preparing for the day ahead. Jumping from the cart, we could see hundreds of camels across the desert landscape. Varying in age, colour, height and character, it was a sight made even more special by their owners, all men, mostly dressed in white dhoti, with vivid turbans of all sunset shades, with the most elaborate moustaches, and each wrinkle lending to their wisdom. All the men were sat around in their resting squat position, bare foot, with their cooking pots simmering, as they sipped on their chai tea, chewing gutka, preparing and planning for the days ahead.

 We wandered down into Pushkar town itself to the market, which was as colourful and varied as the camel’s pom-poms. Musical processions followed us down the streets, as the upbeat atmosphere continued throughout the village celebrating the start of the fair.

 DAY 5

 We started the day in Jodphur (or Blue City after its buildings painted in iconic blue hues) ready for an insight into the more rural life in the surrounding areas. We jumped into a jeep and were driven into the idyllic rural landscape on dirt tracks and over sand dunes. The driver took us through herds of antelope, pointing out exotic birds along the way, with no human activity to be seen for the next half an hour.

 Visiting the local Bushnoi tribes was fascinating. The people are extremely healthy, tall and strong due to their vegetarian diet, and no alcohol or tobacco. They welcomed us in to show us their lives, preparing us food and giving us a glimpse into their day-to-day. It was so peaceful and calm in comparison to the last few days, and it was easy to see the appeal of living away from the hectic inner city life. We spent a considerable amount of time with a particular family, with the most adorable little 18 month boy, who enjoyed playing peek a boo with the cutest little laugh. The tribe live a compassionate life, with respect for all nature and animals, treating them as a member of the family.

 We happened to take a break at a mall roadside shop that turned out to be an Aladdin’s cave! Top to bottom, left to right, every which way you look, there were handbags, cushions, throws, scarves and bedspread in every colour and pattern you could think of, it truly is a textile jungle. Upstairs is filled with amazing Indian doors, antique statues and furniture, where you can discover something truly unique for your home. We could have easily spent days here, uncovering one treasure after another, so immersed in colour, pattern and stitch and filling our heads with inspiration. 

 Our last stop of the day was the royal cremation ground, Jaswant Thada and the Mehrangarh Fort. The mausoleum at Jaswant Thada is made out of thin sheets of marble, intricately carved - the sheets so thin as to emit a warm glow when illuminated by the sun. The Mehrangarh Fort, one of the largest forts in India built in 1459, looking over the walled Blue City. Built from the sandstone it stands on, the level of intricate detail is stunning. Looking up in the expansive courtyards, you are struck by the enormity of the fort, realising that even the buildings made to be sturdy enough to withstand cannonballs, are overflowing with exquisite detail. 

DAY 6

The markets of Jodphur are as colourful and vibrant as the rest of India. With traditional tie-dyed saris, piles upon piles of rich spices and bowls of fresh fruit and veg stacked on stalls, there is so much to take in from all angles. We visited more haberdasheries, sari shops and even a shop showcasing local students work, where are minds were filled with more colour and pattern.

We ventured out of the markets into the buzz of Jodhpurs roads on the sputtering three-wheeled tuk-tuk, passing others with entire families squeezed inside. We were thrown into the middle of the loud, honking traffic, swinging around corners and coming to sudden stops as the continuous stream of pedestrians wander into our path not even flinching at the oncoming traffic. Over potholes and bouncing lane to lane with no regard for road markings, we finally reach our destination with a slam on the brakes. What a ride and what an experience – one we would highly recommend to anyone.